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Sediment dynamics on a steep, megatidal, mixed sand–gravel–cobble beach
oleh: A. E. Hay, L. Zedel, N. Stark
| Format: | Article |
|---|---|
| Diterbitkan: | Copernicus Publications 2014-08-01 |
Deskripsi
Results are presented from a pilot study of shore-face sediment dynamics on a steep, poorly sorted, coarse-grained, megatidal beach at the head of the Bay of Fundy, Nova Scotia, Canada. The experiment involved the first field deployment of a prototype wideband, pulse-coherent, bistatic acoustic Doppler profiling system. Measurements of the vertical structure of flow and turbulence above a sloping bed, as well as bed material velocity, demonstrate the capabilities of this instrument vis-à-vis studies of nearshore sediment dynamics at the field scale. The second focus of the paper is the unexpected observation that the surficial sediment median diameter, across the lower two-thirds of the intertidal zone, underwent a pronounced <i>decrease</i> when wave forcing was <i>more</i> energetic, compared to values observed during calmer conditions. The explanation for this result appears to involve the formation – in wave-dominated conditions – of metre-scale wavelength, 20 cm high ripples on the rising tide, which are then planed flat by the swash and/or the shore break on the subsequent ebb.